Application Techniques By Lisa Her / Photography by Thay Yang
Every master was once a disaster. This explains how I was exactly 11 years ago before the start of my professional makeup artist career. At that time, my skin was still youthful, nonetheless, I was a new Mom and rarely wore makeup just because I didn't have the time and could care less about how I looked in front of my newborn. Besides, a "no makeup" face was so much more convenient since I was a 24 hour nursing machine and didn't want to contaminate any of my precious baby's milk.
Eventually, after a 6 month "stay-at-home-cation," I had to go back to work so sharpening up on my makeup application was very helpful so I can look somewhat "fresh" when I have a face to face conversation with my clients. So, for you Mom's that are looking for some simple tips on how to "doll up" your eyes, or if you are a newbie at doing your own makeup, or if you just want to learn an easier way to create a classic glamour look, then read on. I think you will enjoy the techniques and the step-by-step pictures in this tutorial. You can definitely make the look more intense with liquid or gel liner, however, I wanted to show how you can achieve the same look in a softer version and with the use of an "easier to use" product. Have fun learning something new and enjoy!
Step 1 – Eye Prep
Purpose
Prepping the eyes with eye primer will increase the longevity of the eye makeup, strengthen the color intensity and minimize eye-shadow fall-outs and creasing.
Technique
Tip: Keep the eye completely closed and relaxed for a smooth, even coverage and easier application.
In a circular motion, use the middle finger tip to apply eye primer onto the center bottom of the eyelid, making your way into the outer and inner corners of the eye. Continue with this motion upwards, making sure to buff out the edges as you get into the crease (or the fold at the hollow of the eye). The remaining product on your fingertip can be applied on the brow bone (below the eyebrow arch). For best results, apply evenly.
Tools
Synthetic flat concealer brush and/or fingers
Step 2 – Set the Prepped Lid
Purpose
Set and create a flesh tone highlight on the center lid.
Technique
Load a round eye shadow brush with a nude color eye shadow and press the product firmly onto the eyelid. This will secure the color and prevent fall-outs.
Tools
Round shaped eye shadow brush
Step 3 – Warm up the Crease
Purpose
Create a guideline for eye shadow contouring and give warmth to the crease area.
Technique
Load a dome-shaped crease brush with a medium brown colored eye shadow. Starting from the outer eye area and working towards the nose bridge, apply the product into the crease line in a windshield wiper motion.
Tools
Dome shaped fluffy brush, crease brush
Step 4 – Define the Crease
Purpose
Create definition and give the illusion of a larger eyelid.
Technique
Load a pencil brush with a dark brown/plum eye shadow and lightly dot along the outer eye corner and into the crease line. In a windshield wiper motion, blend the product along the crease line from the outer eye corner towards the inner eye corner. Continue blending until a soft and natural crease is achieved.
Tools
Make Up For Ever Pencil Brush
Step 5 – Cheat Line
Purpose
Set the boundaries to ensure symmetrical application for both eyelids and create a guideline for a winged-liner.
Technique
Tip: Use a sharp eyeliner pencil for an intense and cleaner line.
Starting from the center lower lash line (about ¼ inches from the outer eye corner), take a black or brown eyeliner pencil and draw short, connecting lines towards the outer eye corner. Extend the line about ¼ inches beyond the outer eye corner. Go over the small connecting lines to create a smooth line.
Step 6 – Winged Liner
Purpose
Create definition on the upper lash line and give the illusion of a wider eye.
Technique
Using a gel or liquid eyeliner, line the upper lash line, gradually building a thick line towards the outer eye corner. Stay as close to the lash line as possible.
Note: if using gel liner, use an angled eye-liner brush.
Continue lining the upper lash line until the line connects with your Cheat Line. It should look like a boxed triangle. Fill in the bare area at the tail of the winged liner. The tail should have a clean, sharp “V” shaped edge.
Tools
MAC Angled Eye Liner, Tarte Fine Point Liner
(Closing the boxed triangle to complete the winged tail)
Step 7 – Darken the Eye Crease
Purpose
Add depth to the crease line.
Technique
Load a pencil brush with a dark brown/plum eye shadow and in a windshield wiper motion, apply the product deep into the crease line from corner to corner. You want the crease to be darker than in Step 4. Continue applying eye shadow into the crease to achieve a more intense look.
Tools
Make Up For Ever Pencil Brush
Step 8 – Highlight the inner eye corner
Purpose
Brighten up and bring focus to the inner corner of the eye.
Technique
Load a detail eye brush with a nude shimmery eye shadow (or loose shimmer dust) and stamp the product onto the inner eye corner. Slightly apply the eye shadow on the lower lash line near the tear duct as well.
Tools
Flat Eye Shadow Brush
Step 9 – Apply Mascara
Purpose
Create a sturdy base for the false lash extensions.
Technique
Tip: When applying mascara on your upper lash line, slightly lift your head up and lift eyebrow to prevent mascara from getting onto the eyelid. This will also allow you to reach the base of the lashes.
Apply 10 light coats of mascara to the upper lash line and 5 light coats to the lower lash line. Apply as close to the base of the lashes as possible. For a clean and even application, slightly wiggle the mascara wand as you apply product onto the lashes.
Step 10 – Apply False Lashes
Purpose
Voluminous lashes will help define the eyes and create a dramatic look.
Technique
Measure your natural lash line by aligning the band of the false eye lashes to your natural lash line. If needed, trim the excess from the outer portion of the band. Also, trim the sharp edge of the inner portion of the band.
Apply an even, thin coat of lash adhesive along the band and let it set for about 30 seconds. While waiting for the adhesive to set, use your pointer fingers and thumbs, hold each end of the false lashes and bend the band into a horse-shoe shape
Starting from the outer eye corner, place and press the lash band onto the lash line. Continue this towards the inner eye corner.
Using the pointer finger and thumb, press both your natural and false lashes together and push them towards the base of the lash line.
Note: False lashes are reusable. To remove, gently peel off the lash strip starting at the outer corner. Remove the glue from the band and place it on its original container/tray.